Every surfer remembers his or her first wave, and we thought it would
be a blast to hear first-hand experiences from local kids who are
on their way to becoming life-long surfers. Nine-year-old Lucas Foster
of Leucadia, who caught his first wave at Grandview, kicks off our
continuing series. Parents and friends of little groms with a knack
for writing are welcome to submit stories to email@example.com.
BY LUCAS FOSTER
It was May 2. I woke up early and it was
real foggy outside. The day was normal until 9 am when the sun came
out and I remembered that we had a surf lesson. Then I was really
My brother Logan, who is seven, wanted to
surf too, so we both were having our first lesson. I could not wait
for our lesson. We rode our bikes to Grandview. It is better to
ride your bike because it is too crowded to park on a sunny day
and my Dad’s house is only a few blocks away.
When we got to the beach I thought, “This
is it.” I hoped I would like it. Logan and I met my surf instructor,
Gerry, from Leucadia Surf School. Gerry taught us about “holes,”
which are the part where the wave doesn’t break.
Also he told us to stand in the center of
the board when you stand up. After some more talking about waves
it was finally time for him to take me out on the surfboard. I was
a little scared when I was first going out.
The waves seemed a little big at first.
The water was really blue. I had on my new wetsuit and was warm.
We got wetsuits the day before. (Logan wanted to sleep in his, but
my dad said, “No.”)
Then Gerry pushed me into the wave. The
first wave was moving me a ZILLION miles an hour but I stood up
anyway. I stayed in the center of the board and kept my balance.
It felt like you were flying in a jet plane.
The wave took me pretty far, but I got too
excited near the shore. I moved my feet around and fell. I still
had a good time especially when everyone was screaming for me! I
saw Logan, my Dad, Kristen, Anne and Mary and they were happy I
stood up. Mary is an editor for the Surf City Times and she asked
me to write this article. That is why I’m telling my story
After my first wave, Logan had his turn.
He was scared to go out very far so he got a wave close to the shore
and stood up. We both are surfers now.
Now, I think surfing would be fun. After you surf you get really
hungry and eat all the food at your grandparent’s house.