How to Surf
The Quick Start Guide to Surfing
A long, wide, stable surfboard, about 9 or 10 feet. If you’re a kid, go about 8 or 9 feet.
WHY: Because a bigger board will be easier to balance on. You need to get your balance first, and get used to the way the board glides along with the wave. It’s kind of like the first time you rode a bike. Difficult at first, but once you get it, it’s easy, and you wonder why you thought it was so difficult to begin with.
ANSWER: THE WHITEWATER AWAY FROM OTHER SURFERS. Head off down the beach away from any surfers. What you need when you start is whitewater, the wave after it has already crested and broken, and is rolling in long even white lines toward the beach.
WHY THE WHITEWATER: Everybody, to a man (or woman) starts in the whitewater. Anyone you’ve seen riding hundred foot waves on TV, each and every one of those guys started in the whitewater.
Always take that board straight out through the waves!
The Rules of Surfing Don’t take off in front of someone else. The surfer who takes off nearest the peak and catches the wave first has the right of way. Once someone is up and riding, do not attempt to catch the wave if it will place you in their path. This is the number…
How do I catch waves? Take the board straight out trough the whitewater to between waist to chest deep. Remember to take the board straight through the waves. The board will react just like a boat, and you wouldn’t take a boat out at an angle through the waves, now, would you? 2)Turn the surfboard…
Techniques of getting to your feet.