Dwain Kantor in 1946 San Diego Lifeguards Group photo.
People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf. And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970's in France. Because Boucou now is a different place. It does not even break like … Continue reading Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay
We have been in business a long time. We used to make a video of every surf camp. We don't any more, but we have all the videos still of years gone by. This one from way back in the summer of 2011, when we were at Grandview in Leucadia, and we lived across the … Continue reading Encinitas San Diego surf camp video
Sid Madden grew up right up the street from Swamis, and was a super star of local surfers, though a very humble guy, and always friendly to all. MORE ON SIDNEY MADDEN COMING UP, STAY TUNED!
This is one of the most important longboard contests on the planet, at the world famous point in Austrailia, Noosa Head. This is a study of longboarding at its best. If you missed the contest, you can still watch the replay on this site. Noosa Fesival of Surfing - Live
As told by Woody Brown in Legendary Surfers .com special thanks to Legendary Surfers.com for this interview http://www.legendarysurfers.com/surf/legends/woody.shtml#dickie_cross122243 This is an account of the death of big wave hawaiian pioneer Dickie Cross, when Woody Brown and Dickie Cross paddled out at big Sunset in 1943, as told by survivor Woody Brown. WOODY BROWN: "In the … Continue reading The story of losing Dickie Cross in big surf at Sunset Beach in Hawaii in 1943
THE FIRST WETSUITS IN SURFING The only westsuits were for skin diving, and usually were very uncomfortable and gave you a nasty deep rash in the sides of the neck and the armpits, so that you could barely move. It was a toss up between being freezing cold in 57-58 degree waters, or … Continue reading Extreme old school – Surfing without a wetsuit!
San Diego has always had more surf than anywhere else on the California coast, but that was not recognized by the media until the last 20 years. Meanwhile, we quietly got our waves down here in San Diego.
BUYING YOUR FIRST SURFBOARD When you're buying your first surfboard, it's best not to spend any money, or as little as possible. All you're going to be doing when with your first board is riding white water, getting your balance, and learning to move your board out through the waves with a minimum resistance. … Continue reading Buying your first surfboard