Surf Blog

Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay

People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf.  And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970's in France.   Because Boucou now is a different place.   It does not even break like … Continue reading Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay

Encinitas San Diego surf camp video

We have been in business a long time.   We used to make a video of every surf camp.   We don't any more, but we have all the videos still of years gone by. This one from way back in the summer of 2011, when we were at Grandview in Leucadia, and we lived across the … Continue reading Encinitas San Diego surf camp video

The story of losing Dickie Cross in big surf at Sunset Beach in Hawaii in 1943

As told by Woody Brown in Legendary Surfers .com special thanks to Legendary Surfers.com for this interview http://www.legendarysurfers.com/surf/legends/woody.shtml#dickie_cross122243 This is an account of the death of big wave hawaiian pioneer Dickie Cross, when Woody Brown and Dickie Cross paddled out at big Sunset in 1943, as told by survivor Woody Brown. WOODY BROWN: "In the … Continue reading The story of losing Dickie Cross in big surf at Sunset Beach in Hawaii in 1943

Extreme old school – Surfing without a wetsuit!

  THE FIRST WETSUITS IN SURFING   The only westsuits were for skin diving, and usually were very uncomfortable and gave you a nasty deep rash in the sides of the neck and the armpits, so that you could barely move.  It was a toss up between being freezing cold in 57-58 degree waters, or … Continue reading Extreme old school – Surfing without a wetsuit!