Surf Blog

from Surfline : Six tips for safe surfing during the coronavirus.

from SURFLINE Shred Safely Six tips for safe surfing during the coronavirus. COVID-19 has spun the world upside down and we are navigating a new reality full of uncertainty. As the situation continues to evolve, there are two things we know: 1) Nobody wants to end up in the hospital or be an unwitting link … Continue reading from Surfline : Six tips for safe surfing during the coronavirus.

Memorial Day tribute

My father, standing on the right. Airforce bomber crew during WWII, was shot down over Germany during the war. He jumped out with a parachute, was captured by the Germans and put into in a POW camp, and lived to tell the tale, and take me and my brothers to the beach and teach us about the ocean and waves when we were little kids. Born into it because my father survived WWII.

Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay

People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf.  And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970's in France. Boucou means (phonetically anyway) "very much."  This place we called Very Much.  It was … Continue reading Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay

Sidney Madden – Encinitas original

Sid Madden grew up right up the street from Swamis, and was a super star of local surfers, though a very humble guy, and always friendly to all.I have been getting surfboards from him since the 1970s, and now have three.   (In the 1970's, I used to get rounded pintails from him.  I probably got … Continue reading Sidney Madden – Encinitas original