People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf. And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970’s in France.
Boucou means (phonetically anyway) “very much.” This place we called Very Much. It was a long left barrel, which I often surfed alone, or only with a few others, at most. I would park my 1959 Peugeot 403 (with the sunroof and seats that folded down into a comfortable double bed) on the south side of the channel around Le Barre, and paddle across the channel to Boucou. Used to surf it 5 hours, and alone. Perfect shimmering left barrels. I would get so tired, I would let perfect waves go by, before taking another wave. Sometimes I would drive around the Bayonne Harbor, through Bayonne, a long trip about 45 minutes. But I would have my car to go back to after surfing, so I could have a cigarette and food after surfing. Learned how to backside tube ride at this spot. I was in my young 20s, already tasting these finer things in life, glutting myself on this beautiful, empty left barrel.