People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf. And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970’s in France.
Because Boucou now is a different place. It does not even break like it used to.
Boucou means (phonetically anyway) “very much.” This place we called Very Much. It was a long left barrel, and which I ofen surfed alone, or only with a few others, at most. I surfed it alone, for 5 hours, day after day. I was passing up perfect, shimmering, long left barrels, I was so tired.
To be continued….
The photos below: the truck is at Boucou. Next photo is the 70s surf traveler hangout, the Sable D’or, as it is today. A lot of shots of Grand Plage, in October of 2018. Current photos of Boucou to come.