Way Back in Time at the Bay of Biscay

People often ask me where is my favorite place to surf.  And I have to say, that I have a favorite place AND TIME to surf, which is the Bay of Biscay, a spot called Boucou, in the 1970’s in France.

 

Because Boucou now is a different place.   It does not even break like it used to.

Boucou means (phonetically anyway) “very much.”  This place we called Very Much.  It was a long left barrel, and which I ofen surfed alone, or only with a few others, at most.  I surfed it alone, for 5 hours, day after day.  I was passing up perfect, shimmering, long left barrels, I was so tired.

To be continued….

The photos below: the truck is at Boucou.  Next photo is the 70s surf traveler hangout, the Sable D’or, as it is today.  A lot of shots of Grand Plage, in October of 2018.  Current photos of Boucou to come.

 

 

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