As told by Woody Brown in Legendary Surfers .com special thanks to Legendary Surfers.com for this interview http://www.legendarysurfers.com/surf/legends/woody.shtml#dickie_cross122243 This is an account of the death of big wave hawaiian pioneer Dickie Cross, when Woody Brown and Dickie Cross paddled out at big Sunset in 1943, as told by survivor Woody Brown. WOODY BROWN: "In the … Continue reading The story of losing Dickie Cross in big surf at Sunset Beach in Hawaii in 1943
THE FIRST WETSUITS IN SURFING The only westsuits were for skin diving, and usually were very uncomfortable and gave you a nasty deep rash in the sides of the neck and the armpits, so that you could barely move. It was a toss up between being freezing cold in 57-58 degree waters, or … Continue reading Extreme old school – Surfing without a wetsuit!
San Diego has always had more surf than anywhere else on the California coast, but that was not recognized by the media until the last 20 years. Meanwhile, we quietly got our waves down here in San Diego.
BUYING YOUR FIRST SURFBOARD When you're buying your first surfboard, it's best not to spend any money, or as little as possible. All you're going to be doing when with your first board is riding white water, getting your balance, and learning to move your board out through the waves with a minimum resistance. … Continue reading Buying your first surfboard